Najnoviji recepti

Ovaj genij hakirao joj je hladnjak radi distribucije vina

Ovaj genij hakirao joj je hladnjak radi distribucije vina


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Ova sjajna žena jednostavno je napunila dio "dozatora vode" u novom hladnjaku vinom: Zašto se toga nismo sjetili?

Tako jednostavno, a tako učinkovito.

Doduše, nikada nismo pomišljali učiniti ništa s dozatorom vode/leda u našim hladnjacima osim, znate, nabaviti čašu vode. No Clare (28), Engleskinja, genijalno je smislila prijeko potrebno poboljšanje standardnog dozatora vode u hladnjaku: umjesto toga ulijte vino tako da si možete uliti čašu vina kad god želite (ili barem do boce ponestane).

Clare se na tu ideju dosjetila nakon što su ona i njezin dečko Joe kupili hladnjak za svoj novi dom.

"Naručili smo hladnjak, a Joe je rekao da dolazi s odjeljkom hladnjaka za vino, a ja sam rekao:" Ili bismo ga mogli staviti u dozator vode. "Činilo se da ima savršenog smisla," Clare je rekla za BuzzFeed.

Njihovo jednostavno hakiranje podijeljeno je tisuće puta na Twitteru, a čini se da i ostatak svemira koji voli vino smatra da je to i super.

Moj odrasli život upravo je dostigao vrhunac pic.twitter.com/jU70YQL7VE

- Clare (@iliketweet) 11. prosinca 2016

@iliketweet omg omg. GENIJALNI !!!! Xx

- Sophie (@sophieroseheart) 11. prosinca 2016

@iliketweet S ovom idejom ste trebali imati Vremensku osobu godine. @jesshigham_

- Andrew Yee (@andrewyee) 11. prosinca 2016


Povratak na osnove: Pržena piletina, domaća

Ništa ne može pobijediti jednostavnost nježnog, vlažnog komada mesa, nježno začinjenog i lagano iskrzanog brašnom, a zatim krštenog u lokvi vrele masti do hrskavog, zlatnog savršenstva.

Najvažnija udobna hrana, pečena piletina je nepretenciozna. Ovdje nema oholog zraka. Jedenje prstima nije samo prihvatljivo, već je i potrebno.

Stoga je možda malo iznenađujuće otkriti da je pečena piletina postala vruća kulinarska muza trenutka. Kuhari, upoznajte Elizu Doolittle. Fina kuhinja, upoznajte prženu piletinu.

Jedan pogled na najnovije kuharice govori vam da kuhari posvuda skaču na pečenu piletinu. Ad Hoc recept Thomasa Kellera može izgledati domaće, ali postoji nepogrešiv zrak obrazovane profinjenosti. Kuharica braće Bromberg iz njihovog restorana Blue Ribbon ponovno otkriva južnu namirnicu kao "sjevernu prženu piletinu", pohanu s matzom i umočenu u med.

A tu je i David Chang, čiji recept u kuharici Momofuku potpuno izbacuje koru. Umjesto toga, ptice kuhane na pari, bez tijesta, tretiraju se mršavim umakanjem u vruće ulje prije nego se odjenu sjajnim, trpkim vinaigretom.

Sve se nekako osjeća kao "Project Runway". Ali s piletinom.

Iako se ljubitelji klasične pržene piletine slažu da jelo može biti osnovno, oni će također priznati da dobra pržena piletina zahtijeva tehniku, vrijeme i predanost. Dobro pečena piletina nije "brza hrana".

No, što je zapravo ta savršena tehnika? Tu se fanovi ne slažu. Svatko ima jednu pravu metodu za savršeno prženu piletinu. A svi ostali su heretički.

Nakon nekoliko tjedana testiranja recepta za receptom, imam svoja vrlo čvrsta mišljenja. I nešto supermasne odjeće.

Dobro pečeno pile počinje dobrom pticom. Da, možda zvuči kao da nema problema, ali osjetit ćete razliku. Uzgajane uglavnom zbog veličine i izgleda, previše komercijalnih pilića pati od strašnog nedostatka osobnosti. Ako želite okus, potrošite nekoliko dodatnih dolara na kvalitetnu pticu.

I da, veličina je važna. Mnogi klasični recepti pečene piletine pozivaju mladunčad - mlade male kokoši. Čak i mnogi noviji recepti zahtijevaju manje ptice, negdje u rasponu od 21/2 do 31/2 kilograma. Mnoge moderne kokoši teže čak dva puta više.

Nije dobro. Uz prženu piletinu morate meso skuhati do vlažne nježnosti tijekom vremena koje je potrebno da se vanjska kora ispeče do hrskave zlatno smeđe boje. Prevelika ptica i kora mogu prebojati (čitaj: izgorjeti) prije nego što se meso skuha.

Jedan trik koji sam pronašao je korištenje kornišanskih kokoši umjesto piletine. Okus je dobar i dovoljno su mali da se meso skuha, a da ne zagori koricu. Zamijenite nekoliko kokoši divljači standardnom piletinom koja se traži u receptu, a obično dolazi u pakiranjima od dva, što još više olakšava.

Što je sa začinima? Neki recepti zahtijevaju salamuru. Iako salamure mogu biti izvrsne za dodavanje okusa i vlage, ako koristite dobre ptice i pravilno ih skuhate, one će ostati vlažne. A postoje i drugi načini začinjavanja.

Moj omiljeni začin je jednostavno suho trljanje. Začinite pticu solju i samo s nekoliko sastojaka - nemojte komplicirati - zatim je bacite u zdjelu i ohladite komade kako biste utrljali vrijeme da djeluje. Začini će imati dovoljno vremena da se meso namoči preko noći. Koristit ću sol, češnjak, nasjeckanu svježu biljku ili dvije i malo kiseline (volim koristiti malo svježeg soka i korice citrusa).

Sljedećeg jutra bacite nekoliko šalica mlaćenice u zdjelu i marinirajte piletinu nekoliko sati kako bi dala malo dodatnog okusa. Ptica neće biti u mlaćenici dovoljno dugo da omekša meso, ali mlaćenica će dodati lijep ten.

Otprilike sat vremena prije prženja, lagano protresite komade bez mlaćenice i bagerirajte. Klasični premaz je malo začinjeno brašno, koje odlično funkcionira - lagani sloj se lijepi za mlaćenicu, dajući joj lijepu, ne previše gustu koricu. Za deblju koru ponovno bagerirajte (umočite komad prvo u mlaćenicu ili u pranje jaja ili ostavite da se malo osuši, pa opet bager).

Za neke obožavatelje, pečena piletina je samo kora. Za ekstra hrskavu, ispucalu koru, umjesto dijela brašna upotrijebite kukuruzni škrob. Kukuruzni škrob se često koristi u azijskom prženju i daje laganu, hrskavu mrvicu. Malo praška za pecivo također je odlično za posvjetljivanje teksture. Začinite pticu malo izdašnije tako da okus stoji do kore.

Ili malo protresite bager radi okusa. Kukuruzno brašno dodaje lijepu slatkoću, a kukuruzno brašno daje dodatnu hrskavost.

Kad su komadići spremni, ostavite ih neko vrijeme na sobnoj temperaturi kako bi se korica osušila i uklonite hladnoću s mesa.

Za prženje nema ništa bolje od masti. Možda je to okus, možda postoji nešto u načinu na koji mast reagira s korom, ali mast je čaroban medij za prženje. (I u svakom zalogaju ima malo nagovještaja svinjetine.)

Također možete koristiti neutralno, rafinirano ulje s visokom točkom dimljenja, poput ulja repice ili biljnog kikirikija koje se često preferira zbog visoke točke pušenja. Ako želite, prije dodavanja piletine začinite masnoću prženjem luka, šunke ili slanine.

Piletina može biti pržena na tavi ili duboko pržena. Osim ako ne idem na debelu, svijetlu koru gdje mi je potrebno dovoljno ulja da bi piletina ostala suspendirana, radije se pečem na tavi. Prlja manje ulja i lako je pratiti sve komade koji se prže odjednom. Za ravnomjernu raspodjelu topline upotrijebite dobru, tešku tavu (a kunem se lijevanim željezom na isti način na koji kunem mast).

Za prženje u tavi rastopite dovoljno masnoće da dođe sa strane tave dobrih pola do tri četvrtine inča i zagrijte mast na odgovarajuću temperaturu, općenito između 300 i 350 stupnjeva. Prenisko i ulje će se upiti u koru radije nego je ispržiti previsoko, a kora bi mogla izgorjeti prije nego što vam je piletina gotova. Termometrom održavajte toplinu na stalnoj temperaturi i pobrinite se da imate dobru, tešku tavu za ravnomjernu raspodjelu topline.

Pržite komade dok kora ne postane hrskava i zlatno-smeđa, a meso mekano, od šest do 10 minuta sa strane, ovisno o veličini komada (sjetite se da se bijelo meso kuha brže nego tamno). Neki recepti zahtijevaju pokrivanje tave poklopcem tijekom prženja, iako to pomaže u zadržavanju topline i možda kuha komade malo brže, smatram da čini koricu koja je manje hrskava.

Očistite piletinu, pa je poslužite vruću. Ili još bolje, ostavite da malo odstoji kako bi se okusi omekšali i vjenčali. Uostalom, zar hrana za udobnost ponekad nije najbolji okus sljedećeg dana? Ili možda usred noći, na svjetlu hladnjaka?


Povratak na osnove: Pržena piletina, domaća

Ništa ne može pobijediti jednostavnost nježnog, vlažnog komada mesa, nježno začinjenog i lagano iskrzanog brašnom, a zatim krštenog u lokvi vrele masti do hrskavog, zlatnog savršenstva.

Najvažnija udobna hrana, pečena piletina je nepretenciozna. Ovdje nema oholog zraka. Jedenje prstima nije samo prihvatljivo, već je i potrebno.

Stoga je možda malo iznenađujuće otkriti da je pečena piletina postala vruća kulinarska muza trenutka. Kuhari, upoznajte Elizu Doolittle. Fina kuhinja, upoznajte prženu piletinu.

Jedan pogled na skorije kuharice govori vam da kuhari posvuda skaču na pečenu piletinu. Ad Hoc recept Thomasa Kellera može izgledati domaće, ali postoji nepogrešiv zrak obrazovane profinjenosti. Kuharica braće Bromberg iz njihovog restorana Blue Ribbon ponovno otkriva južnu namirnicu kao "sjevernu prženu piletinu", pohanu s matzom i umočenu u med.

A tu je i David Chang, čiji recept u kuharici Momofuku potpuno izbacuje koru. Umjesto toga, ptice kuhane na pari, bez tijesta, tretiraju se mršavim umakanjem u vruće ulje prije nego se odjenu sjajnim, trpkim vinaigretom.

Sve se nekako osjeća kao "Project Runway". Ali s piletinom.

Iako se ljubitelji klasične pržene piletine slažu da jelo može biti osnovno, oni će također priznati da dobra pržena piletina zahtijeva tehniku, vrijeme i predanost. Dobro pečena piletina nije "brza hrana".

No, što je zapravo ta savršena tehnika? Tu se fanovi ne slažu. Svatko ima jednu pravu metodu za savršeno prženu piletinu. A svi ostali su heretički.

Nakon nekoliko tjedana testiranja recepta po receptu, imam svoja vrlo čvrsta mišljenja. I nešto supermasne odjeće.

Dobro pečeno pile počinje dobrom pticom. Da, možda zvuči kao da nema problema, ali osjetit ćete razliku. Uzgajane uglavnom zbog veličine i izgleda, previše komercijalnih pilića pati od strašnog nedostatka osobnosti. Ako želite okus, potrošite nekoliko dodatnih dolara na kvalitetnu pticu.

I da, veličina je važna. Mnogi klasični recepti pečene piletine pozivaju mladunčad - mlade male kokoši. Čak i mnogi noviji recepti zahtijevaju manje ptice, negdje u rasponu od 21/2 do 31/2 kilograma. Mnoge moderne kokoši teže čak dva puta više.

Nije dobro. Uz prženu piletinu morate meso skuhati do vlažne nježnosti tijekom vremena koje je potrebno da se vanjska kora ispeče do hrskave zlatno smeđe boje. Prevelika ptica i kora mogu prebojati (čitaj: izgorjeti) prije nego što se meso skuha.

Jedan trik koji sam pronašao je korištenje kornišanskih kokoši umjesto piletine. Okus je dobar i dovoljno su mali da se meso skuha, a da ne zagori koricu. Zamijenite nekoliko kokoši divljači standardnom piletinom koja se traži u receptu, a obično dolazi u pakiranjima od dva, što još više olakšava.

Što je sa začinima? Neki recepti zahtijevaju salamuru. Iako salamure mogu biti izvrsne za dodavanje okusa i vlage, ako koristite dobre ptice i pravilno ih skuhate, one će ostati vlažne. A postoje i drugi načini začinjavanja.

Moj omiljeni začin je jednostavno suho trljanje. Začinite pticu solju i samo s nekoliko sastojaka - nemojte komplicirati - zatim je bacite u zdjelu i ohladite komade kako biste utrljali vrijeme da djeluje. Začini će imati dovoljno vremena da se meso namoči preko noći. Koristit ću sol, češnjak, nasjeckanu svježu biljku ili dvije i malo kiseline (volim koristiti malo svježeg soka i korice citrusa).

Sljedećeg jutra bacite nekoliko šalica mlaćenice u zdjelu i marinirajte piletinu nekoliko sati kako bi dala malo dodatnog okusa. Ptica neće biti u mlaćenici dovoljno dugo da omekša meso, ali mlaćenica će dodati lijep ten.

Otprilike sat vremena prije prženja, lagano protresite komade bez mlaćenice i bagerirajte. Klasični premaz je malo začinjeno brašno, koje odlično funkcionira - lagani sloj se lijepi za mlaćenicu, dajući joj lijepu, ne previše gustu koricu. Za deblju koru ponovno bagerirajte (komad prvo umočite u mlaćenicu ili u pranju jaja ili ostavite da se malo osuši, pa opet bager).

Za neke obožavatelje, pečena piletina je samo kora. Za ekstra hrskavu, ispucalu koru, umjesto dijela brašna upotrijebite kukuruzni škrob. Kukuruzni škrob se često koristi u azijskom prženju i daje laganu, hrskavu mrvicu. Malo praška za pecivo također je odlično za posvjetljivanje teksture. Začinite pticu malo izdašnije tako da okus stoji do kore.

Ili malo protresite bager radi okusa. Kukuruzno brašno dodaje lijepu slatkoću, a kukuruzno brašno daje dodatnu hrskavost.

Kad su komadići spremni, ostavite ih neko vrijeme na sobnoj temperaturi kako bi se korica osušila i uklonite hladnoću s mesa.

Za prženje nema ništa bolje od masti. Možda je to okus, možda postoji nešto u načinu na koji mast reagira s korom, ali mast je čaroban medij za prženje. (I u svakom zalogaju ima malo nagovještaja svinjetine.)

Također možete koristiti neutralno, rafinirano ulje s visokom točkom dimljenja, poput ulja repice ili biljnog kikirikija koje se često preferira zbog visoke točke pušenja. Ako želite, prije dodavanja piletine začinite masnoću prženjem luka, šunke ili slanine.

Piletina može biti pržena na tavi ili duboko pržena. Osim ako ne idem na debelu, svijetlu koru gdje mi je potrebno dovoljno ulja da bi piletina ostala suspendirana, radije se pečem na tavi. Prlja manje ulja i lako je pratiti sve komade koji se prže odjednom. Za ravnomjernu raspodjelu topline upotrijebite dobru, tešku tavu (a kunem se lijevanim željezom na isti način na koji kunem mast).

Za prženje u tavi rastopite dovoljno masnoće da dođe sa strane tave dobrih pola do tri četvrtine inča i zagrijte mast na odgovarajuću temperaturu, općenito između 300 i 350 stupnjeva. Premalo i ulje će se upiti u koru radije nego je ispržiti previsoko, pa bi kora mogla izgorjeti prije nego što vam je piletina gotova. Termometrom održavajte toplinu na stalnoj temperaturi i pobrinite se da imate dobru, tešku tavu za ravnomjernu raspodjelu topline.

Pržite komade dok kora ne postane hrskava i zlatno-smeđa, a meso mekano, od šest do 10 minuta sa strane, ovisno o veličini komada (sjetite se da se bijelo meso kuha brže nego tamno). Neki recepti zahtijevaju pokrivanje tave poklopcem tijekom prženja, iako to pomaže u zadržavanju topline i možda kuha komade malo brže, smatram da čini koricu koja je manje hrskava.

Očistite piletinu, pa je poslužite vruću. Ili još bolje, ostavite da malo odstoji kako bi se okusi omekšali i vjenčali. Uostalom, zar hrana za udobnost ponekad nije najbolji okus sljedećeg dana? Ili možda usred noći, na svjetlu hladnjaka?


Povratak na osnove: Pržena piletina, domaća

Ništa ne može pobijediti jednostavnost nježnog, vlažnog komada mesa, nježno začinjenog i lagano iskrzanog brašnom, a zatim krštenog u lokvi vrele masti do hrskavog, zlatnog savršenstva.

Najvažnija udobna hrana, pečena piletina je nepretenciozna. Ovdje nema oholog zraka. Jedenje prstima nije samo prihvatljivo, već je i potrebno.

Stoga je možda malo iznenađujuće otkriti da je pečena piletina postala vruća kulinarska muza trenutka. Kuhari, upoznajte Elizu Doolittle. Fina kuhinja, upoznajte prženu piletinu.

Jedan pogled na najnovije kuharice govori vam da kuhari posvuda skaču na pečenu piletinu. Ad Hoc recept Thomasa Kellera može izgledati domaće, ali postoji nepogrešiv zrak obrazovane profinjenosti. Kuharica braće Bromberg iz njihovog restorana Blue Ribbon ponovno otkriva južnu namirnicu kao "sjevernu prženu piletinu", pohanu s matzom i umočenu u med.

A tu je i David Chang, čiji recept u kuharici Momofuku potpuno izbacuje koru. Umjesto toga, ptice na pari, bez tijesta, tretiraju se mršavim umakanjem u vruće ulje prije no što se odjenu sjajnim, trpkim vinaigretom.

Sve se nekako osjeća kao "Project Runway". Ali s piletinom.

Iako se ljubitelji klasične pržene piletine slažu da jelo može biti osnovno, oni će također priznati da dobra pržena piletina zahtijeva tehniku, vrijeme i predanost. Dobro pečena piletina nije "brza hrana".

No, što je zapravo ta savršena tehnika? Tu se fanovi ne slažu. Svatko ima jednu pravu metodu za savršeno prženu piletinu. A svi ostali su heretički.

Nakon nekoliko tjedana testiranja recepta za receptom, imam svoja vrlo čvrsta mišljenja. I nešto supermasne odjeće.

Dobro pečeno pile počinje dobrom pticom. Da, možda zvuči kao da nema problema, ali osjetit ćete razliku. Uzgajane uglavnom zbog veličine i izgleda, previše komercijalnih pilića pati od strašnog nedostatka osobnosti. Ako želite okus, potrošite nekoliko dodatnih dolara na kvalitetnu pticu.

I da, veličina je važna. Mnogi klasični recepti pečene piletine pozivaju mladunčad - mlade male kokoši. Čak i mnogi noviji recepti zahtijevaju manje ptice, negdje u rasponu od 21/2 do 31/2 kilograma. Mnoge moderne kokoši teže čak dva puta više.

Nije dobro. Uz prženu piletinu morate meso skuhati do vlažne nježnosti u vremenu koje je potrebno vanjskoj kori da se ispeče do hrskave zlatno smeđe boje. Prevelika ptica i kora mogu prebojati (čitaj: izgorjeti) prije nego što se meso skuha.

Jedan trik koji sam pronašao je korištenje kornišanskih kokoši umjesto piletine. Okus je dobar i dovoljno su mali da se meso skuha, a da ne zagori koricu. Zamijenite nekoliko kokoši divljači standardnom piletinom koja se traži u receptu, a obično dolazi u pakiranjima od dva, što još više olakšava.

Što je sa začinima? Neki recepti zahtijevaju salamuru. Iako salamure mogu biti izvrsne za dodavanje okusa i vlage, ako koristite dobre ptice i pravilno ih skuhate, one će ostati vlažne. A postoje i drugi načini začinjavanja.

Moj omiljeni začin je jednostavno suho trljanje. Začinite pticu solju i samo s nekoliko sastojaka - nemojte komplicirati - zatim je bacite u zdjelu i ohladite komade kako biste utrljali vrijeme da djeluje. Začini će imati dovoljno vremena da se meso namoči preko noći. Koristit ću sol, češnjak, nasjeckanu svježu biljku ili dvije i malo kiseline (volim koristiti malo svježeg soka i korice citrusa).

Sljedećeg jutra bacite nekoliko šalica mlaćenice u zdjelu i marinirajte piletinu nekoliko sati kako bi dala malo dodatnog okusa. Ptica neće biti u mlaćenici dovoljno dugo da omekša meso, ali mlaćenica će dodati lijep ten.

Otprilike sat vremena prije prženja, lagano protresite komade bez mlaćenice i bagerirajte. Klasični premaz je malo začinjeno brašno, koje odlično funkcionira - lagani sloj se lijepi za mlaćenicu, dajući joj lijepu, ne previše gustu koricu. Za deblju koru ponovno bagerirajte (komad prvo umočite u mlaćenicu ili u pranju jaja ili ostavite da se malo osuši, pa opet bager).

Za neke obožavatelje, pečena piletina je samo kora. Za ekstra hrskavu, ispucalu koru, umjesto dijela brašna upotrijebite kukuruzni škrob. Kukuruzni škrob se često koristi u azijskom prženju i daje laganu, hrskavu mrvicu. Malo praška za pecivo također je odlično za posvjetljivanje teksture. Začinite pticu malo izdašnije kako bi okus stajao do kore.

Ili malo protresite bager radi okusa. Kukuruzno brašno dodaje lijepu slatkoću, a kukuruzno brašno daje dodatnu hrskavost.

Kad su komadići spremni, ostavite ih neko vrijeme na sobnoj temperaturi kako bi se korica osušila i uklonite hladnoću s mesa.

Za prženje nema ništa bolje od masti. Možda je to okus, možda postoji nešto u načinu na koji mast reagira s korom, ali mast je čaroban medij za prženje. (I u svakom zalogaju ima malo nagovještaja svinjetine.)

Također možete koristiti neutralno, rafinirano ulje s visokom točkom dimljenja, poput ulja repice ili biljnog kikirikija koje se često preferira zbog visoke točke pušenja. Ako želite, prije dodavanja piletine začinite masnoću prženjem luka, šunke ili slanine.

Piletina može biti pržena na tavi ili duboko pržena. Osim ako ne idem na debelu, svijetlu koru gdje mi je potrebno dovoljno ulja da bi piletina ostala suspendirana, radije se pečem na tavi. Prlja manje ulja i lako je pratiti sve komade koji se prže odjednom. Za ravnomjernu raspodjelu topline upotrijebite dobru, tešku tavu (a kunem se lijevanim željezom na isti način na koji kunem mast).

Za prženje u tavi rastopite dovoljno masnoće da dođe sa strane tave dobrih pola do tri četvrtine inča i zagrijte mast na odgovarajuću temperaturu, općenito između 300 i 350 stupnjeva. Prenisko i ulje će se upiti u koru radije nego je ispržiti previsoko, a kora bi mogla izgorjeti prije nego što vam je piletina gotova. Termometrom održavajte toplinu na stalnoj temperaturi i pobrinite se da imate dobru, tešku tavu za ravnomjernu raspodjelu topline.

Pržite komade dok kora ne postane hrskava i zlatno-smeđa, a meso mekano, od šest do 10 minuta sa strane, ovisno o veličini komada (sjetite se da se bijelo meso kuha brže nego tamno). Neki recepti zahtijevaju pokrivanje tave poklopcem tijekom prženja, iako to pomaže u zadržavanju topline i možda kuha komade malo brže, smatram da čini koricu koja je manje hrskava.

Očistite piletinu, pa je poslužite vruću. Ili još bolje, ostavite da malo odstoji kako bi se okusi omekšali i vjenčali. Uostalom, zar udobna hrana ponekad sljedećeg dana nema najbolji okus? Ili možda usred noći, na svjetlu hladnjaka?


Povratak na osnove: Pržena piletina, domaća

Ništa ne može pobijediti jednostavnost nježnog, vlažnog komada mesa, nježno začinjenog i lagano iskrzanog brašnom, a zatim krštenog u lokvi vrele masti do hrskavog, zlatnog savršenstva.

Najvažnija udobna hrana, pečena piletina je nepretenciozna. Ovdje nema oholog zraka. Jedenje prstima nije samo prihvatljivo, već je i potrebno.

Stoga je možda malo iznenađujuće otkriti da je pečena piletina postala vruća kulinarska muza trenutka. Kuhari, upoznajte Elizu Doolittle. Fina kuhinja, upoznajte prženu piletinu.

Jedan pogled na najnovije kuharice govori vam da kuhari posvuda skaču na pečenu piletinu. Ad Hoc recept Thomasa Kellera može izgledati domaće, ali postoji nepogrešiv zrak obrazovane profinjenosti. Kuharica braće Bromberg iz njihovog restorana Blue Ribbon ponovno otkriva južnu namirnicu kao "sjevernu prženu piletinu", pohanu s matzom i umočenu u med.

A tu je i David Chang, čiji recept u kuharici Momofuku potpuno izbacuje koru. Umjesto toga, ptice na pari, bez tijesta, tretiraju se mršavim umakanjem u vruće ulje prije no što se odjenu sjajnim, trpkim vinaigretom.

Sve se nekako osjeća kao "Project Runway". Ali s piletinom.

Iako se ljubitelji klasične pržene piletine slažu da jelo može biti osnovno, oni će također priznati da dobra pržena piletina zahtijeva tehniku, vrijeme i predanost. Dobro pečena piletina nije "brza hrana".

No, što je zapravo ta savršena tehnika? Tu se fanovi ne slažu. Svatko ima jednu pravu metodu za savršeno prženu piletinu. A svi ostali su heretički.

Nakon nekoliko tjedana testiranja recepta za receptom, imam svoja vrlo čvrsta mišljenja. I nešto supermasne odjeće.

Dobro pečeno pile počinje dobrom pticom. Da, možda zvuči kao da nema problema, ali osjetit ćete razliku. Uzgajane uglavnom zbog veličine i izgleda, previše komercijalnih pilića pati od strašnog nedostatka osobnosti. Ako želite okus, potrošite nekoliko dodatnih dolara na kvalitetnu pticu.

I da, veličina je važna. Mnogi klasični recepti pečene piletine pozivaju mladunčad - mlade male kokoši. Čak i mnogi noviji recepti zahtijevaju manje ptice, negdje u rasponu od 21/2 do 31/2 kilograma. Mnoge moderne kokoši teže čak dva puta više.

Nije dobro. Uz prženu piletinu morate meso skuhati do vlažne nježnosti tijekom vremena koje je potrebno da se vanjska kora ispeče do hrskave zlatno smeđe boje. Prevelika ptica i kora mogu prebojati (čitaj: izgorjeti) prije nego što se meso skuha.

Jedan trik koji sam pronašao je korištenje kornišanskih kokoši umjesto piletine. Okus je dobar i dovoljno su mali da se meso skuha, a da ne zagori koricu. Zamijenite nekoliko kokoši divljači standardnom piletinom koja se traži u receptu, a obično dolazi u pakiranjima od dva, što još više olakšava.

Što je sa začinima? Neki recepti zahtijevaju salamuru. Iako salamure mogu biti izvrsne za dodavanje okusa i vlage, ako koristite dobre ptice i pravilno ih skuhate, one će ostati vlažne. A postoje i drugi načini začinjavanja.

Moj omiljeni začin je jednostavno suho trljanje. Začinite pticu solju i samo s nekoliko sastojaka - nemojte komplicirati - zatim je bacite u zdjelu i ohladite komade kako biste utrljali vrijeme da djeluje. Začini će imati dovoljno vremena da se meso namoči preko noći. Koristit ću sol, češnjak, nasjeckanu svježu biljku ili dvije i malo kiseline (volim koristiti malo svježeg soka i korice citrusa).

Sljedećeg jutra bacite nekoliko šalica mlaćenice u zdjelu i marinirajte piletinu nekoliko sati kako bi dala malo dodatnog okusa. Ptica neće biti u mlaćenici dovoljno dugo da omekša meso, ali mlaćenica će dodati lijep ten.

Otprilike sat vremena prije prženja, lagano protresite komade bez mlaćenice i bagerirajte. Klasični premaz je malo začinjeno brašno, koje odlično funkcionira - lagani sloj se lijepi za mlaćenicu, dajući joj lijepu, ne previše gustu koricu. Za deblju koru ponovno bagerirajte (umočite komad prvo u mlaćenicu ili u pranje jaja ili ostavite da se malo osuši, pa opet bager).

Za neke obožavatelje, pržena piletina je samo kora. Za ekstra hrskavu, ispucalu koru, umjesto dijela brašna upotrijebite kukuruzni škrob. Kukuruzni škrob se često koristi u azijskom prženju i daje laganu, hrskavu mrvicu. Malo praška za pecivo također je odlično za posvjetljivanje teksture. Začinite pticu malo izdašnije kako bi okus stajao do kore.

Ili malo protresite bager radi okusa. Kukuruzno brašno dodaje lijepu slatkoću, a kukuruzno brašno daje dodatnu hrskavost.

Kad su komadići spremni, ostavite ih neko vrijeme na sobnoj temperaturi kako bi se korica osušila i uklonite hladnoću s mesa.

Za prženje nema ništa bolje od masti. Možda je to okus, možda postoji nešto u načinu na koji mast reagira s korom, ali mast je čaroban medij za prženje. (I u svakom zalogaju ima malo nagovještaja svinjetine.)

Također možete koristiti neutralno, rafinirano ulje s visokom točkom dimljenja, poput ulja repice ili biljnog kikirikija koje se često preferira zbog visoke točke pušenja. Ako želite, prije dodavanja piletine začinite masnoću prženjem luka, šunke ili slanine.

Piletina može biti pržena na tavi ili duboko pržena. Osim ako ne idem na gustu, svijetlu koru gdje mi je potrebno dovoljno ulja kako bi piletina ostala suspendirana, radije ću se pržiti u tavi. Prlja manje ulja i lako je pratiti sve komade koji se prže odjednom. Za ravnomjernu raspodjelu topline upotrijebite dobru, tešku tavu (a kunem se lijevanim željezom na isti način na koji kunem mast).

Za prženje u tavi rastopite dovoljno masnoće da dođe sa strane tave dobrih pola do tri četvrtine inča i zagrijte mast na odgovarajuću temperaturu, općenito između 300 i 350 stupnjeva. Premalo i ulje će se upiti u koru radije nego je ispržiti previsoko, pa bi kora mogla izgorjeti prije nego što vam je piletina gotova. Termometrom održavajte toplinu na stalnoj temperaturi i pobrinite se da imate dobru, tešku tavu za ravnomjernu raspodjelu topline.

Pržite komade dok kora ne postane hrskava i zlatno-smeđa, a meso mekano, od šest do 10 minuta sa strane, ovisno o veličini komada (sjetite se da se bijelo meso kuha brže nego tamno). Neki recepti zahtijevaju pokrivanje tave poklopcem tijekom prženja, iako to pomaže u zadržavanju topline i možda kuha komade malo brže, smatram da čini koricu koja je manje hrskava.

Hrskavu piletinu ocijedite, a zatim poslužite vruću. Ili još bolje, ostavite da malo odstoji kako bi se okusi omekšali i vjenčali. Uostalom, zar udobna hrana ponekad sljedećeg dana nema najbolji okus? Ili možda usred noći, na svjetlu hladnjaka?


Povratak na osnove: Pržena piletina, domaća

Ništa ne može pobijediti jednostavnost nježnog, vlažnog komada mesa, nježno začinjenog i lagano iskrzanog brašnom, a zatim krštenog u lokvi vrele masti do hrskavog, zlatnog savršenstva.

Najvažnija udobna hrana, pečena piletina je nepretenciozna. Ovdje nema oholog zraka. Jedenje prstima nije samo prihvatljivo, već je i potrebno.

Stoga je možda malo iznenađujuće otkriti da je pečena piletina postala vruća kulinarska muza trenutka. Kuhari, upoznajte Elizu Doolittle. Fina kuhinja, upoznajte prženu piletinu.

Jedan pogled na najnovije kuharice govori vam da kuhari posvuda skaču na pečenu piletinu. Ad Hoc recept Thomasa Kellera može izgledati domaće, ali postoji nepogrešiv zrak obrazovane profinjenosti. Kuharica braće Bromberg iz njihovog restorana Blue Ribbon ponovno otkriva južnu namirnicu kao "sjevernu prženu piletinu", pohanu s matzom i umočenu u med.

A tu je i David Chang, čiji recept u kuharici Momofuku potpuno izbacuje koru. Umjesto toga, ptice kuhane na pari, bez tijesta, tretiraju se mršavim umakanjem u vruće ulje prije nego se odjenu sjajnim, trpkim vinaigretom.

Sve se nekako osjeća kao "Project Runway". Ali s piletinom.

Iako se ljubitelji klasične pržene piletine slažu da jelo može biti osnovno, oni će također priznati da dobra pržena piletina zahtijeva tehniku, vrijeme i predanost. Dobro pečena piletina nije "brza hrana".

No, što je zapravo ta savršena tehnika? Tu se fanovi ne slažu. Svatko ima jednu pravu metodu za savršeno prženu piletinu. A svi ostali su heretički.

Nakon nekoliko tjedana testiranja recepta za receptom, imam svoja vrlo čvrsta mišljenja. I nešto supermasne odjeće.

Dobro pečeno pile počinje dobrom pticom. Da, možda zvuči kao da nema problema, ali osjetit ćete razliku. Uzgajane uglavnom zbog veličine i izgleda, previše komercijalnih pilića pati od strašnog nedostatka osobnosti. Ako želite okus, potrošite nekoliko dodatnih dolara na kvalitetnu pticu.

I da, veličina je važna. Mnogi klasični recepti pečene piletine pozivaju mladunčad - mlade male kokoši. Čak i mnogi noviji recepti zahtijevaju manje ptice, negdje u rasponu od 21/2 do 31/2 kilograma. Mnoge moderne kokoši teže čak dva puta više.

Nije dobro. Uz prženu piletinu morate meso skuhati do vlažne nježnosti tijekom vremena koje je potrebno da se vanjska kora ispeče do hrskave zlatno smeđe boje. Prevelika ptica i kora mogu prebojati (čitaj: izgorjeti) prije nego što se meso skuha.

Jedan trik koji sam pronašao je korištenje kornišanskih kokoši umjesto piletine. Okus je dobar i dovoljno su mali da se meso skuha, a da ne zagori koricu. Substitute a couple of game hens for a standard chicken called for in a recipe they usually come in packs of two, which makes it even easier.

So what about seasoning? Some recipes call for a brine. Though brines can be great for adding flavor and moisture, if you use good birds and cook them properly, they’ll stay moist. And there are other ways to season.

My favorite seasoning is a simple dry rub. Season the bird with salt and just a few ingredients — don’t complicate things — then toss it in a bowl and refrigerate the pieces to give the rub time to work. The seasoning will have plenty of time to soak through the meat overnight. I’ll use salt, garlic, a chopped fresh herb or two and a little acid (I like to use a little fresh citrus juice and zest).

The next morning, toss a couple of cups of buttermilk in the bowl and marinate the chicken for a few hours to lend a little extra flavor. The bird won’t be in the buttermilk long enough to tenderize the meat, but the buttermilk will add nice tang.

About an hour before frying, gently shake the pieces free of the buttermilk and dredge. The classic coating is a little seasoned flour, which works just fine — a light coat sticks to the buttermilk, giving it a nice, not too thick crust. For a thicker crust, dredge again (dip the piece in a buttermilk or egg wash first, or let it dry a bit, then dredge again).

For some fans, fried chicken is all about the crust. For an extra-crisp, crackly crust, use cornstarch in place of some of the flour. Cornstarch is often used in Asian frying and lends a light, crisp crunch. A little baking powder is also great for lightening the texture. Season the bird a little more generously so the flavor stands up to the crust.

Or shake up the dredge a bit for flavor. Corn flour adds a nice sweetness, and cornmeal gives a little extra crunch.

When the pieces are ready, let them sit at room temperature for a while to give the crust time to dry and take the chill off the meat.

For frying, there’s nothing better than lard. Maybe it’s the flavor, maybe there’s something to the way the fat reacts with the crust, but lard is a magical frying medium. (And there’s a little hint of pork in every bite.)

You can also use a neutral, refined oil with a high smoking point, such as canola or vegetable peanut oil is often preferred for its high smoking point. If you’d like, flavor the fat before adding the chicken by frying an onion, or some ham or bacon.

Chicken can be either pan-fried, or deep-fried. Unless I’m going for a thick, light crust where I need enough oil to keep the chicken suspended, I prefer to pan-fry. It dirties less oil, and it’s easy to monitor all of the pieces frying at once. Use a good, heavy skillet to evenly distribute the heat (and I swear by cast iron the same way I swear by lard).

To pan-fry, melt enough fat in a skillet to come a good half to three-fourths inch up the side of the pan, and heat the fat to the right temperature, generally between 300 and 350 degrees. Too low, and the oil will soak into the crust rather than fry it too high, and the crust might burn before your chicken is done. Use a thermometer to keep the heat at a consistent temperature, and make sure you’ve got a good, heavy skillet to evenly distribute the heat.

Fry the pieces until the crust is crisp and golden-brown and the meat is tender, anywhere from six to 10 minutes a side depending on the size of the piece (remember, white meat cooks more quickly than dark). Some recipes call for covering the pan with a lid while frying although this helps retain heat and maybe cooks the pieces a little faster, I find it makes for a crust that’s less crisp.

Drain the crisp chicken, then serve it hot. Or better still, let it sit awhile to allow the flavors to mellow and marry. After all, doesn’t comfort food sometimes taste best the next day? Or perhaps in the middle of the night, by the light of the fridge?


Back to basics: Fried chicken, made at home

Nothing beats the simplicity of a tender, moist piece of meat, delicately seasoned and lightly dredged with a dusting of flour, and then baptized in a pool of sizzling fat to crisp, golden perfection.

Quintessential comfort food that it is, fried chicken is unpretentious. No haughty airs here. Eating with your fingers is not only acceptable, it’s all but required.

So maybe it’s a little surprising to find that fried chicken has become the hot culinary muse of the moment. Chefs, meet Eliza Doolittle. Fine cuisine, meet fried chicken.

One look at the recent crop of cookbooks tells you that chefs everywhere are jumping on the fried chicken bandwagon. Thomas Keller’s Ad Hoc recipe may look homey, but there’s an unmistakable air of educated refinement. The Bromberg brothers’ cookbook from their restaurant Blue Ribbon reinvents the Southern staple as “Northern Fried Chicken,” breaded with matzo and dipped in honey.

And then there’s David Chang, whose recipe in the Momofuku cookbook tosses out the crust altogether. Instead, the steamed birds, without batter, are treated to a skinny dip in hot oil before being dressed with a glossy, tart vinaigrette.

It all kinda feels like “Project Runway.” But with chicken.

While lovers of classic fried chicken agree that the dish may be basic, they’ll also acknowledge that good fried chicken requires technique, time and dedication. Good fried chicken is not “fast food.”

But what exactly is that perfect technique? This is where fans disagree. Everyone has the one true method for perfect fried chicken. And everyone else’s is heretical.

After a couple of weeks testing recipe after recipe, I have some very firm opinions of my own. And some super-greasy clothes.

Good fried chicken starts with a good bird. Yeah, it may sound like a no-brainer, but you’ll taste the difference. Bred mainly for size and appearance, too many commercial chickens suffer from a terrible lack of personality. If you want flavor, spend a few extra bucks on a quality bird.

And yes, size does matter. Many classic fried chicken recipes call for pullets — young small hens. Even many newer recipes call for smaller birds, somewhere in the range of 21/2 to 31/2 pounds. Many modern chickens weigh as much as twice that.

Nije dobro. With fried chicken, you’ve got to cook the meat to moist tenderness in the time it takes the outer crust to fry to a crisp golden brown. Too large a bird and the crust might over-color (read: burn) before the meat cooks through.

One trick I found is using Cornish game hens instead of chicken. The flavor is good and they’re small enough that the meat cooks through without burning the crust. Substitute a couple of game hens for a standard chicken called for in a recipe they usually come in packs of two, which makes it even easier.

So what about seasoning? Some recipes call for a brine. Though brines can be great for adding flavor and moisture, if you use good birds and cook them properly, they’ll stay moist. And there are other ways to season.

My favorite seasoning is a simple dry rub. Season the bird with salt and just a few ingredients — don’t complicate things — then toss it in a bowl and refrigerate the pieces to give the rub time to work. The seasoning will have plenty of time to soak through the meat overnight. I’ll use salt, garlic, a chopped fresh herb or two and a little acid (I like to use a little fresh citrus juice and zest).

The next morning, toss a couple of cups of buttermilk in the bowl and marinate the chicken for a few hours to lend a little extra flavor. The bird won’t be in the buttermilk long enough to tenderize the meat, but the buttermilk will add nice tang.

About an hour before frying, gently shake the pieces free of the buttermilk and dredge. The classic coating is a little seasoned flour, which works just fine — a light coat sticks to the buttermilk, giving it a nice, not too thick crust. For a thicker crust, dredge again (dip the piece in a buttermilk or egg wash first, or let it dry a bit, then dredge again).

For some fans, fried chicken is all about the crust. For an extra-crisp, crackly crust, use cornstarch in place of some of the flour. Cornstarch is often used in Asian frying and lends a light, crisp crunch. A little baking powder is also great for lightening the texture. Season the bird a little more generously so the flavor stands up to the crust.

Or shake up the dredge a bit for flavor. Corn flour adds a nice sweetness, and cornmeal gives a little extra crunch.

When the pieces are ready, let them sit at room temperature for a while to give the crust time to dry and take the chill off the meat.

For frying, there’s nothing better than lard. Maybe it’s the flavor, maybe there’s something to the way the fat reacts with the crust, but lard is a magical frying medium. (And there’s a little hint of pork in every bite.)

You can also use a neutral, refined oil with a high smoking point, such as canola or vegetable peanut oil is often preferred for its high smoking point. If you’d like, flavor the fat before adding the chicken by frying an onion, or some ham or bacon.

Chicken can be either pan-fried, or deep-fried. Unless I’m going for a thick, light crust where I need enough oil to keep the chicken suspended, I prefer to pan-fry. It dirties less oil, and it’s easy to monitor all of the pieces frying at once. Use a good, heavy skillet to evenly distribute the heat (and I swear by cast iron the same way I swear by lard).

To pan-fry, melt enough fat in a skillet to come a good half to three-fourths inch up the side of the pan, and heat the fat to the right temperature, generally between 300 and 350 degrees. Too low, and the oil will soak into the crust rather than fry it too high, and the crust might burn before your chicken is done. Use a thermometer to keep the heat at a consistent temperature, and make sure you’ve got a good, heavy skillet to evenly distribute the heat.

Fry the pieces until the crust is crisp and golden-brown and the meat is tender, anywhere from six to 10 minutes a side depending on the size of the piece (remember, white meat cooks more quickly than dark). Some recipes call for covering the pan with a lid while frying although this helps retain heat and maybe cooks the pieces a little faster, I find it makes for a crust that’s less crisp.

Drain the crisp chicken, then serve it hot. Or better still, let it sit awhile to allow the flavors to mellow and marry. After all, doesn’t comfort food sometimes taste best the next day? Or perhaps in the middle of the night, by the light of the fridge?


Back to basics: Fried chicken, made at home

Nothing beats the simplicity of a tender, moist piece of meat, delicately seasoned and lightly dredged with a dusting of flour, and then baptized in a pool of sizzling fat to crisp, golden perfection.

Quintessential comfort food that it is, fried chicken is unpretentious. No haughty airs here. Eating with your fingers is not only acceptable, it’s all but required.

So maybe it’s a little surprising to find that fried chicken has become the hot culinary muse of the moment. Chefs, meet Eliza Doolittle. Fine cuisine, meet fried chicken.

One look at the recent crop of cookbooks tells you that chefs everywhere are jumping on the fried chicken bandwagon. Thomas Keller’s Ad Hoc recipe may look homey, but there’s an unmistakable air of educated refinement. The Bromberg brothers’ cookbook from their restaurant Blue Ribbon reinvents the Southern staple as “Northern Fried Chicken,” breaded with matzo and dipped in honey.

And then there’s David Chang, whose recipe in the Momofuku cookbook tosses out the crust altogether. Instead, the steamed birds, without batter, are treated to a skinny dip in hot oil before being dressed with a glossy, tart vinaigrette.

It all kinda feels like “Project Runway.” But with chicken.

While lovers of classic fried chicken agree that the dish may be basic, they’ll also acknowledge that good fried chicken requires technique, time and dedication. Good fried chicken is not “fast food.”

But what exactly is that perfect technique? This is where fans disagree. Everyone has the one true method for perfect fried chicken. And everyone else’s is heretical.

After a couple of weeks testing recipe after recipe, I have some very firm opinions of my own. And some super-greasy clothes.

Good fried chicken starts with a good bird. Yeah, it may sound like a no-brainer, but you’ll taste the difference. Bred mainly for size and appearance, too many commercial chickens suffer from a terrible lack of personality. If you want flavor, spend a few extra bucks on a quality bird.

And yes, size does matter. Many classic fried chicken recipes call for pullets — young small hens. Even many newer recipes call for smaller birds, somewhere in the range of 21/2 to 31/2 pounds. Many modern chickens weigh as much as twice that.

Nije dobro. With fried chicken, you’ve got to cook the meat to moist tenderness in the time it takes the outer crust to fry to a crisp golden brown. Too large a bird and the crust might over-color (read: burn) before the meat cooks through.

One trick I found is using Cornish game hens instead of chicken. The flavor is good and they’re small enough that the meat cooks through without burning the crust. Substitute a couple of game hens for a standard chicken called for in a recipe they usually come in packs of two, which makes it even easier.

So what about seasoning? Some recipes call for a brine. Though brines can be great for adding flavor and moisture, if you use good birds and cook them properly, they’ll stay moist. And there are other ways to season.

My favorite seasoning is a simple dry rub. Season the bird with salt and just a few ingredients — don’t complicate things — then toss it in a bowl and refrigerate the pieces to give the rub time to work. The seasoning will have plenty of time to soak through the meat overnight. I’ll use salt, garlic, a chopped fresh herb or two and a little acid (I like to use a little fresh citrus juice and zest).

The next morning, toss a couple of cups of buttermilk in the bowl and marinate the chicken for a few hours to lend a little extra flavor. The bird won’t be in the buttermilk long enough to tenderize the meat, but the buttermilk will add nice tang.

About an hour before frying, gently shake the pieces free of the buttermilk and dredge. The classic coating is a little seasoned flour, which works just fine — a light coat sticks to the buttermilk, giving it a nice, not too thick crust. For a thicker crust, dredge again (dip the piece in a buttermilk or egg wash first, or let it dry a bit, then dredge again).

For some fans, fried chicken is all about the crust. For an extra-crisp, crackly crust, use cornstarch in place of some of the flour. Cornstarch is often used in Asian frying and lends a light, crisp crunch. A little baking powder is also great for lightening the texture. Season the bird a little more generously so the flavor stands up to the crust.

Or shake up the dredge a bit for flavor. Corn flour adds a nice sweetness, and cornmeal gives a little extra crunch.

When the pieces are ready, let them sit at room temperature for a while to give the crust time to dry and take the chill off the meat.

For frying, there’s nothing better than lard. Maybe it’s the flavor, maybe there’s something to the way the fat reacts with the crust, but lard is a magical frying medium. (And there’s a little hint of pork in every bite.)

You can also use a neutral, refined oil with a high smoking point, such as canola or vegetable peanut oil is often preferred for its high smoking point. If you’d like, flavor the fat before adding the chicken by frying an onion, or some ham or bacon.

Chicken can be either pan-fried, or deep-fried. Unless I’m going for a thick, light crust where I need enough oil to keep the chicken suspended, I prefer to pan-fry. It dirties less oil, and it’s easy to monitor all of the pieces frying at once. Use a good, heavy skillet to evenly distribute the heat (and I swear by cast iron the same way I swear by lard).

To pan-fry, melt enough fat in a skillet to come a good half to three-fourths inch up the side of the pan, and heat the fat to the right temperature, generally between 300 and 350 degrees. Too low, and the oil will soak into the crust rather than fry it too high, and the crust might burn before your chicken is done. Use a thermometer to keep the heat at a consistent temperature, and make sure you’ve got a good, heavy skillet to evenly distribute the heat.

Fry the pieces until the crust is crisp and golden-brown and the meat is tender, anywhere from six to 10 minutes a side depending on the size of the piece (remember, white meat cooks more quickly than dark). Some recipes call for covering the pan with a lid while frying although this helps retain heat and maybe cooks the pieces a little faster, I find it makes for a crust that’s less crisp.

Drain the crisp chicken, then serve it hot. Or better still, let it sit awhile to allow the flavors to mellow and marry. After all, doesn’t comfort food sometimes taste best the next day? Or perhaps in the middle of the night, by the light of the fridge?


Back to basics: Fried chicken, made at home

Nothing beats the simplicity of a tender, moist piece of meat, delicately seasoned and lightly dredged with a dusting of flour, and then baptized in a pool of sizzling fat to crisp, golden perfection.

Quintessential comfort food that it is, fried chicken is unpretentious. No haughty airs here. Eating with your fingers is not only acceptable, it’s all but required.

So maybe it’s a little surprising to find that fried chicken has become the hot culinary muse of the moment. Chefs, meet Eliza Doolittle. Fine cuisine, meet fried chicken.

One look at the recent crop of cookbooks tells you that chefs everywhere are jumping on the fried chicken bandwagon. Thomas Keller’s Ad Hoc recipe may look homey, but there’s an unmistakable air of educated refinement. The Bromberg brothers’ cookbook from their restaurant Blue Ribbon reinvents the Southern staple as “Northern Fried Chicken,” breaded with matzo and dipped in honey.

And then there’s David Chang, whose recipe in the Momofuku cookbook tosses out the crust altogether. Instead, the steamed birds, without batter, are treated to a skinny dip in hot oil before being dressed with a glossy, tart vinaigrette.

It all kinda feels like “Project Runway.” But with chicken.

While lovers of classic fried chicken agree that the dish may be basic, they’ll also acknowledge that good fried chicken requires technique, time and dedication. Good fried chicken is not “fast food.”

But what exactly is that perfect technique? This is where fans disagree. Everyone has the one true method for perfect fried chicken. And everyone else’s is heretical.

After a couple of weeks testing recipe after recipe, I have some very firm opinions of my own. And some super-greasy clothes.

Good fried chicken starts with a good bird. Yeah, it may sound like a no-brainer, but you’ll taste the difference. Bred mainly for size and appearance, too many commercial chickens suffer from a terrible lack of personality. If you want flavor, spend a few extra bucks on a quality bird.

And yes, size does matter. Many classic fried chicken recipes call for pullets — young small hens. Even many newer recipes call for smaller birds, somewhere in the range of 21/2 to 31/2 pounds. Many modern chickens weigh as much as twice that.

Nije dobro. With fried chicken, you’ve got to cook the meat to moist tenderness in the time it takes the outer crust to fry to a crisp golden brown. Too large a bird and the crust might over-color (read: burn) before the meat cooks through.

One trick I found is using Cornish game hens instead of chicken. The flavor is good and they’re small enough that the meat cooks through without burning the crust. Substitute a couple of game hens for a standard chicken called for in a recipe they usually come in packs of two, which makes it even easier.

So what about seasoning? Some recipes call for a brine. Though brines can be great for adding flavor and moisture, if you use good birds and cook them properly, they’ll stay moist. And there are other ways to season.

My favorite seasoning is a simple dry rub. Season the bird with salt and just a few ingredients — don’t complicate things — then toss it in a bowl and refrigerate the pieces to give the rub time to work. The seasoning will have plenty of time to soak through the meat overnight. I’ll use salt, garlic, a chopped fresh herb or two and a little acid (I like to use a little fresh citrus juice and zest).

The next morning, toss a couple of cups of buttermilk in the bowl and marinate the chicken for a few hours to lend a little extra flavor. The bird won’t be in the buttermilk long enough to tenderize the meat, but the buttermilk will add nice tang.

About an hour before frying, gently shake the pieces free of the buttermilk and dredge. The classic coating is a little seasoned flour, which works just fine — a light coat sticks to the buttermilk, giving it a nice, not too thick crust. For a thicker crust, dredge again (dip the piece in a buttermilk or egg wash first, or let it dry a bit, then dredge again).

For some fans, fried chicken is all about the crust. For an extra-crisp, crackly crust, use cornstarch in place of some of the flour. Cornstarch is often used in Asian frying and lends a light, crisp crunch. A little baking powder is also great for lightening the texture. Season the bird a little more generously so the flavor stands up to the crust.

Or shake up the dredge a bit for flavor. Corn flour adds a nice sweetness, and cornmeal gives a little extra crunch.

When the pieces are ready, let them sit at room temperature for a while to give the crust time to dry and take the chill off the meat.

For frying, there’s nothing better than lard. Maybe it’s the flavor, maybe there’s something to the way the fat reacts with the crust, but lard is a magical frying medium. (And there’s a little hint of pork in every bite.)

You can also use a neutral, refined oil with a high smoking point, such as canola or vegetable peanut oil is often preferred for its high smoking point. If you’d like, flavor the fat before adding the chicken by frying an onion, or some ham or bacon.

Chicken can be either pan-fried, or deep-fried. Unless I’m going for a thick, light crust where I need enough oil to keep the chicken suspended, I prefer to pan-fry. It dirties less oil, and it’s easy to monitor all of the pieces frying at once. Use a good, heavy skillet to evenly distribute the heat (and I swear by cast iron the same way I swear by lard).

To pan-fry, melt enough fat in a skillet to come a good half to three-fourths inch up the side of the pan, and heat the fat to the right temperature, generally between 300 and 350 degrees. Too low, and the oil will soak into the crust rather than fry it too high, and the crust might burn before your chicken is done. Use a thermometer to keep the heat at a consistent temperature, and make sure you’ve got a good, heavy skillet to evenly distribute the heat.

Fry the pieces until the crust is crisp and golden-brown and the meat is tender, anywhere from six to 10 minutes a side depending on the size of the piece (remember, white meat cooks more quickly than dark). Some recipes call for covering the pan with a lid while frying although this helps retain heat and maybe cooks the pieces a little faster, I find it makes for a crust that’s less crisp.

Drain the crisp chicken, then serve it hot. Or better still, let it sit awhile to allow the flavors to mellow and marry. After all, doesn’t comfort food sometimes taste best the next day? Or perhaps in the middle of the night, by the light of the fridge?


Back to basics: Fried chicken, made at home

Nothing beats the simplicity of a tender, moist piece of meat, delicately seasoned and lightly dredged with a dusting of flour, and then baptized in a pool of sizzling fat to crisp, golden perfection.

Quintessential comfort food that it is, fried chicken is unpretentious. No haughty airs here. Eating with your fingers is not only acceptable, it’s all but required.

So maybe it’s a little surprising to find that fried chicken has become the hot culinary muse of the moment. Chefs, meet Eliza Doolittle. Fine cuisine, meet fried chicken.

One look at the recent crop of cookbooks tells you that chefs everywhere are jumping on the fried chicken bandwagon. Thomas Keller’s Ad Hoc recipe may look homey, but there’s an unmistakable air of educated refinement. The Bromberg brothers’ cookbook from their restaurant Blue Ribbon reinvents the Southern staple as “Northern Fried Chicken,” breaded with matzo and dipped in honey.

And then there’s David Chang, whose recipe in the Momofuku cookbook tosses out the crust altogether. Instead, the steamed birds, without batter, are treated to a skinny dip in hot oil before being dressed with a glossy, tart vinaigrette.

It all kinda feels like “Project Runway.” But with chicken.

While lovers of classic fried chicken agree that the dish may be basic, they’ll also acknowledge that good fried chicken requires technique, time and dedication. Good fried chicken is not “fast food.”

But what exactly is that perfect technique? This is where fans disagree. Everyone has the one true method for perfect fried chicken. And everyone else’s is heretical.

After a couple of weeks testing recipe after recipe, I have some very firm opinions of my own. And some super-greasy clothes.

Good fried chicken starts with a good bird. Yeah, it may sound like a no-brainer, but you’ll taste the difference. Bred mainly for size and appearance, too many commercial chickens suffer from a terrible lack of personality. If you want flavor, spend a few extra bucks on a quality bird.

And yes, size does matter. Many classic fried chicken recipes call for pullets — young small hens. Even many newer recipes call for smaller birds, somewhere in the range of 21/2 to 31/2 pounds. Many modern chickens weigh as much as twice that.

Nije dobro. With fried chicken, you’ve got to cook the meat to moist tenderness in the time it takes the outer crust to fry to a crisp golden brown. Too large a bird and the crust might over-color (read: burn) before the meat cooks through.

One trick I found is using Cornish game hens instead of chicken. The flavor is good and they’re small enough that the meat cooks through without burning the crust. Substitute a couple of game hens for a standard chicken called for in a recipe they usually come in packs of two, which makes it even easier.

So what about seasoning? Some recipes call for a brine. Though brines can be great for adding flavor and moisture, if you use good birds and cook them properly, they’ll stay moist. And there are other ways to season.

My favorite seasoning is a simple dry rub. Season the bird with salt and just a few ingredients — don’t complicate things — then toss it in a bowl and refrigerate the pieces to give the rub time to work. The seasoning will have plenty of time to soak through the meat overnight. I’ll use salt, garlic, a chopped fresh herb or two and a little acid (I like to use a little fresh citrus juice and zest).

The next morning, toss a couple of cups of buttermilk in the bowl and marinate the chicken for a few hours to lend a little extra flavor. The bird won’t be in the buttermilk long enough to tenderize the meat, but the buttermilk will add nice tang.

About an hour before frying, gently shake the pieces free of the buttermilk and dredge. The classic coating is a little seasoned flour, which works just fine — a light coat sticks to the buttermilk, giving it a nice, not too thick crust. For a thicker crust, dredge again (dip the piece in a buttermilk or egg wash first, or let it dry a bit, then dredge again).

For some fans, fried chicken is all about the crust. For an extra-crisp, crackly crust, use cornstarch in place of some of the flour. Cornstarch is often used in Asian frying and lends a light, crisp crunch. A little baking powder is also great for lightening the texture. Season the bird a little more generously so the flavor stands up to the crust.

Or shake up the dredge a bit for flavor. Corn flour adds a nice sweetness, and cornmeal gives a little extra crunch.

When the pieces are ready, let them sit at room temperature for a while to give the crust time to dry and take the chill off the meat.

For frying, there’s nothing better than lard. Maybe it’s the flavor, maybe there’s something to the way the fat reacts with the crust, but lard is a magical frying medium. (And there’s a little hint of pork in every bite.)

You can also use a neutral, refined oil with a high smoking point, such as canola or vegetable peanut oil is often preferred for its high smoking point. If you’d like, flavor the fat before adding the chicken by frying an onion, or some ham or bacon.

Chicken can be either pan-fried, or deep-fried. Unless I’m going for a thick, light crust where I need enough oil to keep the chicken suspended, I prefer to pan-fry. It dirties less oil, and it’s easy to monitor all of the pieces frying at once. Use a good, heavy skillet to evenly distribute the heat (and I swear by cast iron the same way I swear by lard).

To pan-fry, melt enough fat in a skillet to come a good half to three-fourths inch up the side of the pan, and heat the fat to the right temperature, generally between 300 and 350 degrees. Too low, and the oil will soak into the crust rather than fry it too high, and the crust might burn before your chicken is done. Use a thermometer to keep the heat at a consistent temperature, and make sure you’ve got a good, heavy skillet to evenly distribute the heat.

Fry the pieces until the crust is crisp and golden-brown and the meat is tender, anywhere from six to 10 minutes a side depending on the size of the piece (remember, white meat cooks more quickly than dark). Some recipes call for covering the pan with a lid while frying although this helps retain heat and maybe cooks the pieces a little faster, I find it makes for a crust that’s less crisp.

Drain the crisp chicken, then serve it hot. Or better still, let it sit awhile to allow the flavors to mellow and marry. After all, doesn’t comfort food sometimes taste best the next day? Or perhaps in the middle of the night, by the light of the fridge?


Back to basics: Fried chicken, made at home

Nothing beats the simplicity of a tender, moist piece of meat, delicately seasoned and lightly dredged with a dusting of flour, and then baptized in a pool of sizzling fat to crisp, golden perfection.

Quintessential comfort food that it is, fried chicken is unpretentious. No haughty airs here. Eating with your fingers is not only acceptable, it’s all but required.

So maybe it’s a little surprising to find that fried chicken has become the hot culinary muse of the moment. Chefs, meet Eliza Doolittle. Fine cuisine, meet fried chicken.

One look at the recent crop of cookbooks tells you that chefs everywhere are jumping on the fried chicken bandwagon. Thomas Keller’s Ad Hoc recipe may look homey, but there’s an unmistakable air of educated refinement. The Bromberg brothers’ cookbook from their restaurant Blue Ribbon reinvents the Southern staple as “Northern Fried Chicken,” breaded with matzo and dipped in honey.

And then there’s David Chang, whose recipe in the Momofuku cookbook tosses out the crust altogether. Instead, the steamed birds, without batter, are treated to a skinny dip in hot oil before being dressed with a glossy, tart vinaigrette.

It all kinda feels like “Project Runway.” But with chicken.

While lovers of classic fried chicken agree that the dish may be basic, they’ll also acknowledge that good fried chicken requires technique, time and dedication. Good fried chicken is not “fast food.”

But what exactly is that perfect technique? This is where fans disagree. Everyone has the one true method for perfect fried chicken. And everyone else’s is heretical.

After a couple of weeks testing recipe after recipe, I have some very firm opinions of my own. And some super-greasy clothes.

Good fried chicken starts with a good bird. Yeah, it may sound like a no-brainer, but you’ll taste the difference. Bred mainly for size and appearance, too many commercial chickens suffer from a terrible lack of personality. If you want flavor, spend a few extra bucks on a quality bird.

And yes, size does matter. Many classic fried chicken recipes call for pullets — young small hens. Even many newer recipes call for smaller birds, somewhere in the range of 21/2 to 31/2 pounds. Many modern chickens weigh as much as twice that.

Nije dobro. With fried chicken, you’ve got to cook the meat to moist tenderness in the time it takes the outer crust to fry to a crisp golden brown. Too large a bird and the crust might over-color (read: burn) before the meat cooks through.

One trick I found is using Cornish game hens instead of chicken. The flavor is good and they’re small enough that the meat cooks through without burning the crust. Substitute a couple of game hens for a standard chicken called for in a recipe they usually come in packs of two, which makes it even easier.

So what about seasoning? Some recipes call for a brine. Though brines can be great for adding flavor and moisture, if you use good birds and cook them properly, they’ll stay moist. And there are other ways to season.

My favorite seasoning is a simple dry rub. Season the bird with salt and just a few ingredients — don’t complicate things — then toss it in a bowl and refrigerate the pieces to give the rub time to work. The seasoning will have plenty of time to soak through the meat overnight. I’ll use salt, garlic, a chopped fresh herb or two and a little acid (I like to use a little fresh citrus juice and zest).

The next morning, toss a couple of cups of buttermilk in the bowl and marinate the chicken for a few hours to lend a little extra flavor. The bird won’t be in the buttermilk long enough to tenderize the meat, but the buttermilk will add nice tang.

About an hour before frying, gently shake the pieces free of the buttermilk and dredge. The classic coating is a little seasoned flour, which works just fine — a light coat sticks to the buttermilk, giving it a nice, not too thick crust. For a thicker crust, dredge again (dip the piece in a buttermilk or egg wash first, or let it dry a bit, then dredge again).

For some fans, fried chicken is all about the crust. For an extra-crisp, crackly crust, use cornstarch in place of some of the flour. Cornstarch is often used in Asian frying and lends a light, crisp crunch. A little baking powder is also great for lightening the texture. Season the bird a little more generously so the flavor stands up to the crust.

Or shake up the dredge a bit for flavor. Corn flour adds a nice sweetness, and cornmeal gives a little extra crunch.

When the pieces are ready, let them sit at room temperature for a while to give the crust time to dry and take the chill off the meat.

For frying, there’s nothing better than lard. Maybe it’s the flavor, maybe there’s something to the way the fat reacts with the crust, but lard is a magical frying medium. (And there’s a little hint of pork in every bite.)

You can also use a neutral, refined oil with a high smoking point, such as canola or vegetable peanut oil is often preferred for its high smoking point. If you’d like, flavor the fat before adding the chicken by frying an onion, or some ham or bacon.

Chicken can be either pan-fried, or deep-fried. Unless I’m going for a thick, light crust where I need enough oil to keep the chicken suspended, I prefer to pan-fry. It dirties less oil, and it’s easy to monitor all of the pieces frying at once. Use a good, heavy skillet to evenly distribute the heat (and I swear by cast iron the same way I swear by lard).

To pan-fry, melt enough fat in a skillet to come a good half to three-fourths inch up the side of the pan, and heat the fat to the right temperature, generally between 300 and 350 degrees. Too low, and the oil will soak into the crust rather than fry it too high, and the crust might burn before your chicken is done. Use a thermometer to keep the heat at a consistent temperature, and make sure you’ve got a good, heavy skillet to evenly distribute the heat.

Fry the pieces until the crust is crisp and golden-brown and the meat is tender, anywhere from six to 10 minutes a side depending on the size of the piece (remember, white meat cooks more quickly than dark). Some recipes call for covering the pan with a lid while frying although this helps retain heat and maybe cooks the pieces a little faster, I find it makes for a crust that’s less crisp.

Drain the crisp chicken, then serve it hot. Or better still, let it sit awhile to allow the flavors to mellow and marry. After all, doesn’t comfort food sometimes taste best the next day? Or perhaps in the middle of the night, by the light of the fridge?


Gledaj video: Kako naci gdje curi rashladna tekucina. (Siječanj 2023).